Used bowling balls represent a legitimate path to quality equipment at reduced cost — especially for beginners who aren't ready to commit $150+ to a new reactive ball, or experienced bowlers looking to expand their arsenal without paying full price. But not all used balls are good deals. Certain defects make a ball unusable or dangerous, and many "bargain" used balls are cheap precisely because they have problems that will cost more to fix than the savings justify.
What to Check Before Buying
Coverstock condition: The most important check. Look for deep gouges, cracks, or crazing (a network of fine surface cracks that indicate the coverstock has dried out or been damaged). Minor scratches in the track area are normal and can be resurfaced. Deep cracks anywhere in the coverstock mean the ball's structural integrity is compromised — don't buy it.
Core integrity: You can't see the core, but you can feel for unusual weight distribution. Roll the ball on a flat surface — it should roll true without wobbling or veering. A ball that wobbles consistently has a damaged or separated core and is not repairable.
Finger holes: The existing holes need to either fit your hand or be pluggable. Small variations in hole size can be accommodated with inserts. Large mismatches require plugging the holes and re-drilling — this costs $30–$60 and is worth it if the ball is otherwise sound, but adds to the total cost calculation.
Oil saturation: Old balls that have been heavily used without cleaning may have oil-saturated coverstocks that can't be fully restored. Run a hot towel extraction (see our ball cleaner guide) — if the towels come out heavily oiled after multiple rounds, the ball may be too far gone to perform properly even after surface work.
Where to Buy Used Bowling Balls
Pro shops: Some pro shops take in used balls as trade-ins or sell consignment equipment. This is the best source — shop staff can assess condition accurately, and you can often have the ball redrilled on the spot. They're unlikely to sell you a genuinely defective ball because their reputation depends on it.
Bowling center equipment rooms: Some centers sell off old house balls or customer equipment. House balls are polyester and useful as spare balls — you're unlikely to get a reactive ball here, but a $10 polyester ball for spare practice is a solid value.
eBay and Facebook Marketplace: The broadest selection and lowest prices, but the highest risk. Sellers may not know what to look for or may not disclose defects. Buy only from sellers who provide clear photos of the track area, finger holes, and overall surface. Never buy a used reactive ball you can't inspect in person if you're new to evaluating ball condition.
Other bowlers: Fellow league members selling equipment they've upgraded from is often the sweet spot — you can inspect the ball, the seller knows its history, and prices are usually fair.
When Used Makes Sense
Used balls make the most sense for: a beginner buying their first reactive ball to learn on (something in the $30–$50 range that you'll replace once your game develops); an experienced bowler expanding their arsenal with a discontinued model they specifically want; a spare ball (used polyester balls are almost always fine if cosmetically acceptable); or a practice ball for experimenting with surface adjustments without risking your competition equipment.
Used balls make less sense when you need maximum performance, when you're competing at a level where equipment quality matters, or when the ball's history is completely unknown and the price isn't dramatically below new.